Soothr
Massaman Trio. According to our server this is one of the dishes that specifically grabbed Michelin’s attention. I guess the Man couldn’t pick all of them. Fair enough. — Soothr
It’s the third entry in our loose “Weekend with my Parents” trilogy, and we’re going out on a high note. Michelin high.
Soothr (pronounced “Sood” and meaning “Recipe” in Thai) in East Village is, contrary to my initial thoughts, not technically a Michelin-starred restaurant, but it is a more-than-well-deserved entry in the 2021 Michelin Guide. With a stamp of approval from the Tire Man himself (or one of his associates), there was no question about my parents and I attempting to sneak a table for an early dinner.
Sneaking ended up being the operative term here, as we were just fortunate enough to stop by before the restaurant’s transition from its lunch schedule to its evening hours (Hours: 12PM-4PM, 5PM-10:30/11:30PM). The half hour wait was trivial, considering we were the only ones outside at the time (and they had spare chairs as part of their outdoor seating).
When it comes to restaurants gold-stamped on the foodie grid, reservations are always a must. A walk-in at such a perfect timing is practically unthinkable. As the 5pm starting line closed in, you could see the parties of to-be diners apparate from down the street, as if summoned by the proverbial dinner bell. Needless to say, our party of three made certain to get into line. First come first serve after all. And even with that punctuality, the staff still ran a head count before letting us know that we had exactly one hour to eat, as we had just filled out a small vacancy in their booking for the night. To belabor a point, we were lucky.
There are two interconnected seating areas, an inside bar/table setup that is intimately packed and an outdoor enclosed space. We ended up outdoors, seemingly designed for larger parties and overflow, but the availability of sunlight was nice. The oddly raised wooden bench that I sat on was less so. The midday rave going on next door was also a curious note. Ironic, considering that Soothr has signs up encouraging guests to be respectful of their neighbors and mindful of their speaking volume. I
get the sense that the place is run by younger people (the staff and patrons seem to suggest the same). For my money this is a hot spot for the hip young Asian crowd. But hey, my folks and I are all young at heart. And our hips are probably equally decrepit, regardless of age.
But anyway anyway anyway…we came here to discuss FOOD.
Hooooooo mama are there things to discuss. Although Soothr identifies itself as a Thai Noodle Bar, the offerings run the veritable gamut of cuisine, from traditional noodle dishes and soups to contemporary offerings of elevated street food and a storied list of in-house cocktails.
Speaking of those cocktails, Soothr’s signature nine reference the Order of the Nine Gems, a chivalric/honor system devised by the late King Mongkut (Rama IV) in 1851. Each cocktail is named after one of these revered stones, their colors matching to suit. Not only is the cultural insight a fun and enriching detail to the dining experience, but the concoctions are good too, incorporating unique flavors and adding little mixology touches to create a regal and uniquely tasty set.
Ploychompu (Rose Quartz) — Vodka, Rose wine, Aperol, Lychee puree, rose syrup, lime juice
Petchara (Diamond) — Jasmine-infused vodka, Grand Marnier, Saint Germain, Prosecco
Bu-Nga — Gin, butterfly pea-infused Umeshu, Salted plum puree, Cointreau, lime juice, Bergamotto (with a plum powder rim)
Each of us ordered one drink, including a newer special, the Bu-Nga, which is independent of the gems. Of the three that we sampled, I would have to say that one was my favorite. Between its beautifully regal presentation, as well as its harmony of sweet, sophisticated, and savory flavors, the cocktail more than earns its signature status.
According to the included background on the drinks menu, the nine gems are said to bring everlasting posterity (wealth, health, and bountiful luck) if possessed, or I suppose in this case, imbibed. Right now I’m looking at a completed Rose Quartz with a few sips of Diamond, but I’d be more than happy to complete my set (over multiple visits, don’t you go worrying now).
Simple and clean.
Okay, for real this time. Onto the food food. There’s just so much to talk about, it takes some time to get there.
We got five dishes between us, which felt like a fairly diverse assortment. Two appetizers/small bites, three entrees. As for the apps, we ordered the Duck Rolls and the Ha Guen. The rolls were everything that you could want. Crispy but fried lightly enough to wake up one’s appetite without weighing them down. Filled with roasted duck, mushrooms, and leeks, each bite was crunchy, clean, and a wake-up call if somehow the drinks weren’t enough. Good eats inbound.
The Ha Guen (fried shredded taro) was really where things became exceptional. If you’ve never had taro before, we’ve got a lot of ground to cover. Let’s just say that when you know you know. And even if you do know, I still find it necessary to convey how incredible these little morsels were. Warm on the tongue with a flaky texture and a starchy, nutty taste…oof my mouth is watering as I reminisce. Taro is good. Taro is love. GET THIS.
Plum sauce included with each. A nice, sweet touch if you’re looking for it.
Here’s a regular reminder that we are SLEEPING on Taro. Yuca too, while we’re at it.
Don’t let the summertime sticky heat stop you from gorging on (non-spicy) curry.
Our entrees were the Massaman Trio (pictured above), the Khao Soi Nuer, and the Dry Sukhothai noodles. Both the Massaman and the Khao Soi Nuer featured rich, Northern-style coconut curries, which could just as easily bolster your day as they could knock you into a food coma as your soul (well separated from your body at this point) reached a state of tummy enlightenment.
Digging through each bowl you’ll find treasures beneath the surface. For the Massaman, creamy bites of stewed pumpkin swim through the golden seas. Vegetables, crunchy, pickled, and otherwise doused in the curry pool follow.
The Khao Soi Nuer has a bit of everything. Aforementioned vegetables make a reappearance. Noodles, both crunchy and soft, wrap themselves in their baths and act as vehicles for you to slurp up as much flavor as possible. Perhaps most importantly, tender chunks of stewed beef break away between your teeth, melting with their rendered fats like cuts of short rib.
A little bit of everything, everywhere, all at once.
The dry noodles (which we specifically vouched for during our visit with the aforementioned curries in tow) offered a little bit of everything. Noodles, bean sprouts, fish cakes, meat, peanuts, greens, that one half egg. Every texture was there, and each flavor was apparent but not overstated. All in all, a satisfying, all-encompassing dish.
By the end of our hour, which we got through with time to spare, mind you, the three of us were sufficiently stuffed. So much so that we had to skip dessert. Having paid our check, thanked our server, and walked out the door, we could see that the entire restaurant, including their frontside street seating, was completely filled. Not just that, but their food was all arriving with impeccable timing. I really have no idea how they pulled it off. It’s a well-oiled machine in there.
As we leave Soothr, our table no doubt getting filled seconds after our departure, the restaurant bustles on. My parents and I walk around a little while longer (most importantly, we start to walk off some of the calories) before going our separate ways. It’s a satiated cap off to a happy and successful weekend. Until next time, I’m going to go into my happy little food coma corner.
I’ll be back for you next time, mango sticky rice. Don’t you worry, I didn’t forget you.
